North Face Route

This is a great route for the few people out there who like this kind of stuff. It's like a bigger badder version of The Dodger.

Pitch 1) 5.10- 110' Start on the corner of the north and north-west faces. Traverse right on a ledge to reach the main crack system (5.6 R). Climb the sustained and physical hand crack thru many bulges to a final 10' offwidth section. At the top of the off width traverse right and scramble to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2) 5.10- PG13 80' A burly pitch. Climb the roof above the belay (5.9+). Pull an awkward bulge above the ledge, and start up the laser cut offwidth corner above. Gear is occasionally found in cracks on the right face to supplement the #6 Camalot. Physical climbing leads to a nice ledge in a room. The belay crack is inside the room in the chimney below your feet.

Pitch 3) 5.9+ R 80' Think you're done? No! Take your helmet off, suck in your gut, and worm your way up the squeeze above your head. Unprotected, but impossible to fall out of. Flop onto a ledge, and rest up for the final 30' of 5.9+R face climbing to the summit. The only gear on the pitch is a red alien 5' from the top. A fall before you get it in could result in a 20 footer onto a ledge, but you wouldn't fall off the ledge.

Descent: rap the north face with 1 rope.

Park at Midgely Bridge. Hike 1 1/2 mile up Wilson Canyon Trail until 2 spires appear on the right. The right one is Super Crack Tower. Bushwhack up and right, along a ridge a few hundred yards east of SCT. When at the level of the base of the tower, bushwhack back left to the base of the tower. Scramble under the south face of the tower, then up the west side. Start left of the obvious crack system that almost touches the ground on the north-west corner.

All sizes in new Camalots. 2 each 0.1 - 4. 1 each 5, 6. Nuts. Big Bro's if you got 'em.