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Peak Mountain 3

Catharsis

FA John Turner, François Garneau, Bernard Poisson (1957)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 (5.4R) - 100' : Start at the right leaning hand crack, then follow the orange face up to a diagonal crack where a vertical crack intersects. Belay here. There is no real crux except for the long runout. Rock is good, feet are there; but there is most definitely a long runout.

P2 (5.4PG) - 80': Go up the vertical crack then break right, going up to and past the left facing corner. Belay just past the corner. Anchor beta: I belayed to the right and top of the corner. There is a vertical crack there that feels much safer than the small horizontals a bit higher.

P3 (5.5PG) - 120': Straight up and over the corner above the belay, to another left facing corner. Traverse right to the tree ledge. The crux of this pitch was getting over the corner right off the belay.

P4 (5.5PG) - 190': This is a great pitch, and wanders somewhat: From the belay, 4th class for a about 40' right, then go up straight through the middle of the overlap, then to a second overlap. Undercling left, and at the corner, go up. Move up the face next to the left arching overlaps and break through before they end. There is a piton (doesn't look too old) towards the beginning of the arches. Once over the arches, friction up to the trees.

Walk off by continuing up to the top through the bushes then following the trail back down to the campground. At hospital rock (big rock at a lookout), take a right. The walkout takes about 30 minutes. It's not worth abseiling IMHO.

If you do decide to rap anyway, remember that the rappels deposit you at the base of the visor section of the slab, which means that you'll need to get back up to the vegetated ledge to get your stuff (if you leave some there). The 2 rappels I spotted on the way up were off slings on trees, so if you're as chicken as me, bring up some leaver slings to add to the tat if need be. (really, the walk off is a breeze, quicker and much safer)

Location

When arriving at the base of the slab from the trail, continue left along the base of the slab until you've passed the visor (big arch that you can see on the slab).

Sramble up left to gain a high vegetated ledge. See pictures for what the base looks like.

As always, refer to Adirondack Rock for complete details.

Protection

The two first belays are gear anchors, the two last are off trees.

There are no bolts, but the first 2 pitches have one old bolt stud each.

I used up the small TCU's more than usual so if you have them, bring them.