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Peak Mountain 3

Pollen Direct

FA Cameron Kaminsky, 6/8/2020
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UPDATED 

Description

DISCLAIMER: I tried my best to decipher whether this is simply a repeat of Pollen (V2) or a new variation. With the extremely sparse information surrounding Pollen, my best guess is that this is indeed a more difficult variation, and that the original veers off to the left after the start. This could obviously be wrong, but regardless I will document in much more detail this climb, because I think it is simply fantastic and is easily my favorite in the reservation.

This climb begins with a sit start on the hole in the wall. From there, it progresses through a few easy moves until the right hand leverages a deep three finger sidepull, allowing the left hand to swing up into the crux hold. This hold itself is quite good, comfortably allowing three fingers on the left hand. I, however, found that in order to successfully match this hold I needed to only catch it with two and stack them on the left side. This allowed for the match and top out. The footholds are good the whole way up. Most holds are deep but will only accommodate 2 or 3 fingers, making this climb feel very unique for the rock type.

Beta video HERE.

Location

This climb can be found on the hole in the wall, on the side opposite the main wall.

Protection

I felt adequately protected with two pads.