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Peak Mountain 3

Center Ladder

FA JMC 8/2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From JMC on Supertopo Oct. 07 -"New (relative) bolted line I put up last August, still hasn't gone fully free. 6 or 7 bolts painted grey, straightforward aiding (I think you need to stickclip the first one, or make some hook move to get to it.) The bottom bulge is the crux, I think 5.12ish. The rest of it (from bolt 2) is 5.11, with some good hand jams in the diagonal crack, 2nd crux exiting the crack. Some good climbing, but I could have done a better job on the bolting."

I tried to aid this and got shut down hard. I had to stick clip the first bolt. Then there's a big gap between the 3rd and 4th bolt I could not get past free or aid without a stick clip. The route goes up and right and then cuts back left to merge with the left bolt ladder a few bolts before the anchors.

C2 if aiding or 5.12 if climbing

Location

Center bolt line on the left side of the waterfall.

Protection

10 bolts, maybe a few cams, hooks for aiding and a stick clip.


Routes in Millard Canyon