- Edit (TBD)
Description
From JMC on Supertopo Oct. 07 -"New (relative) bolted line I put up last August, still hasn't gone fully free. 6 or 7 bolts painted grey, straightforward aiding (I think you need to stickclip the first one, or make some hook move to get to it.) The bottom bulge is the crux, I think 5.12ish. The rest of it (from bolt 2) is 5.11, with some good hand jams in the diagonal crack, 2nd crux exiting the crack. Some good climbing, but I could have done a better job on the bolting."
I tried to aid this and got shut down hard. I had to stick clip the first bolt. Then there's a big gap between the 3rd and 4th bolt I could not get past free or aid without a stick clip. The route goes up and right and then cuts back left to merge with the left bolt ladder a few bolts before the anchors.
C2 if aiding or 5.12 if climbing
Location
Center bolt line on the left side of the waterfall.
Protection
10 bolts, maybe a few cams, hooks for aiding and a stick clip.
Routes in Millard Canyon
- 1Center Ladder5.12Trad · Aid