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Peak Mountain 3

Crazy Streak

FA Billy Hughes
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This low angle White Rock route is destined to become a Classic.

The route is well protected with bolts where gear is inadequate, and can be done with a single 60m Rope. **

WARNING

: 60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent.

Tie Knots in your rope!

P1:

100' 5.- Low angle groove that takes #4 camalot and smaller.

P2:

80' 5.8+ Friction climb past a bolt to a groove that takes medium gear to a shallow ledge, clip the high bolt and friction climb (crux) to a low angle groove that takes medium to small gear.

P3:

100' 5.7+ Climb up to cool iron deposit chicken heads and friction climbing past bolts.

P4:

100' 5.7 Traverse left past 2 bolts to shallow non-continuous crack that takes medium gear. Continue up past 4 bolts.

P5:

100' 5.7 Climb up and clip first bolt, foot traverse right to a "U" shaped hold. Mantle up and traverse back up and left past bolts to non-continuous crack that takes medium gear and past more bolts to anchor.

P6:

90' 5.6 Climb up and left past a dirty, shallow seem. Don't skip any opportunities to place gear in the shallow crack. When the crack stops, climb past single bolt to shallow ledge.

P7:

85' 5.6 Friction climb up and left then straight up past a few small bushes to a belay anchor.

P8:

90' 5.7+ Climb up and left past some steeper friction climbing to an interesting mantle move below the belay anchor on a small ledge.

P9:

100' 5.7+ Foot traverse right and mantle up. Climb left to non-continuous crack that takes hand sized gear past a low 5th class section with no pro for 25'. Continue through a series of mantles.

P10:

90' 5.7+ Spooky foot traverse right to a hard to see bolt then up and right to clip a bolt near a small pine tree. Scramble up and left over dirty loose rock to another hard to see bolt followed by a series of tricky mantles and steeper terrain to anchor at the lip of the face.

NEW VARIATION FOR PITCH 10:

90' (Still needs grade) Starting slightly right of the belay. Climb up past 4 bolts on sloping holds to the left of a large bush. Eventually trending right to meet up with the original route. --- This variation will avoid the wondering and dirty loose section of P10. However, this will drastically change the grade. Please leave a comment with your consensus and I will update it here.

Location

Follows non continuous cracks through a red water streak to the top of the face. Rappel the route with a 60m rope. **

WARNING:

60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent.

Tie Knots in your rope!

*NOTE A park imposed RNA exists to protect the summit cap. Therefore the true summit is CLOSED TO RECREATIONAL USE. Please respect these boundaries.

Protection

BD Camalots, .3 to #4, Extra #1 to #3, 15 quick draws (some alpine draws helpful), 60 meter rope

**WARNING:

60m rope barely reaches some rappel stations** (70m rope will make rappels more comfortable) All anchors are 2 bolts with chain for easy belays and descent.

Tie Knots in your rope!


Routes in Crazy Quilt Mesa


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    Crazy Streak
    5.8
    Trad