DEFCON 1

DEFCON 1 is an excellent addition to the Grizzly Wall. Its name stems from the incoming missiles that were raining down on us while putting up the route. The wind was whipping through the canyon and apparently blowing golf ball sized rocks off the rim. These proceeded to whiz by our heads at an alarming rate of velocity, hence we were at DEFCON 1 for most of the day.

Pitch 1 (.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts and yellow Alien) - climb past 3 visible bolts, move right at the 3rd bolt on a nice rail, then up and left to a 4th bolt, move gingerly past a hollow flake (bolt), more up and left past a 5th bolt, a yellow Alien in a horizontal and up to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 1a, new variation

(recommended start) (.10b 5 bolts and gear) The variation begins about 20 feet left of the original. Climb past two bolts while staying left of a small dirty corner. Continue up past 3 more bolts, a #3 camalot and yellow tcu placement and one final bolt to the anchor. 70 feet and still needs some cleaning. Ends at the same anchor as the original pitch 1.

Pitch 2 (.11c/d, 65 feet, 4 or 5 bolts, purple Camalot) - climb off the ledge, place a purple camalot and then start the business of the pitch. Move right at the cam placement and then up and back left to the first of 3 bolts. Crux is moving between the 2nd and 3rd of these bolts. After the crux, move up and left (bolt) to an obvious ledge. Either mantle directly (awkward) or reach straight up into a small R-facing corner with a hidden pocket, step up and then left onto the ledge, 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (.10, 105 feet, blue Alien to blue Camalot, you could double up gray camalot to yellow camalot) - Stellar trad climbing on bullet quartzite, bomber cam placements in the horizontals, this pitch is all gear to the anchor. The pitch trends up and left to start and then breaks right to a mini 2 foot left-facing corner, this has a small bush in residence. From that point you move back left on good horizontals and fire up to a shallow, right-facing corner, also home to some vegetation. The anchor is just above this feature.

By following the path of least resistance you should be able to keep the grade at 10. As you look up from the pitch 2 belay you will see some bushes to your left, this is what you are aiming for.

For the grade this pitch is money; steep, moderate, great gear, does it get any better? There are two anchors, the lower is best used when you rap to the ground, the upper (8 feet higher) is preferred for belaying pitch 4.

Pitch 4 (.10+ PG-13, 80 feet, bolts, small gear to yellow Camalot) This pitch has a tricky start, the holds are there, move up and then right to a great horizontal, #2 Camalot size, then by 3 or 4 bolts (one is a 1/4 rivet with hanger, FA leading shenanigans piece), to an obvious overlap, traverse left under this, eventually make a couple of moves off its left edge up great stone leftward past a couple more bolts to a final mantle up to the anchor. This pitch is on excellent stone. The anchor ledge is cleaning up well, but be prepared for some choss as you make the final mantle.

The PG-13 rating comes from needing to be aware of limited placements on the first 20 feet of this pitch. They are there and bomber, just not as abundant as on pitch 3, keep your eyes open.

Single rope rap from the top of pitch 4 back to the top of pitch 3 or just lower the leader to the ledge and belay the second on a TR, lowering biners on the p.4 anchor. Use the lower anchor on p.3 to rap on two 60m ropes to the ground. It is a full 200 feet to the ground from the top of pitch 3.

This route was done ground up.

Do the standard Grizzly Wall approach and as the trail comes close to the wall you should see the bolts. Route is located about 30 yards left of

Orangina

.

Bolts, yellow Alien through yellow Camalot (blue optional), depending on your comfort level you may want doubles 0.5 and up. Gear placements are in horizontals for the most part. 12 draws/runners should be sufficient.