- Edit (TBD)
Description
Another great route on Moss Cliff. Expect everything ranging from fingers to chimney climbing.
P1; Same as Touch of Class. Start up a wet right facing corner until a hard move sends you slightly left to a left facing corner. Exit onto a nice ledge and construct a belay. 5.9+ / 100'.
P2; Traverse the ledge right for about 20 feet to a shallow right facing corner with 2 dirty cracks. Climb up and make a long step right to another crack. The steep crack goes from thin to wide hands before finally reaching a cozy tree belay ledge. Gear to #3 C4's. 5.10- / 80' Note: ADK Rock topo says OW but this is a typo. It's only wide hands. V2.1: Traverse the ledge right for about 15 feet until it's possible to make some easy balance moves [dubious medium RP] up to a left facing corner. Keep traversing right along a foot rail to a good hold and bomber gear. Make a long step right to the vertical crack. I found this to be cleaner with less rope drag.
P3; Start the right crack in Squamish style. Transition to the left crack and make a few hard moves to a great rest stance. Above you now is an ominous 4.5" OW. More hard moves to get into it, then it eases as you bust a few face moves but you need to get back into it for a great finish at a good tree ledge. Gear to #5 double if you don't like pushing the cam along. 5.10 / 60'.
P4; Step up onto a pointy block and climb the right side cracks. Eventually you end up facing a wide chimney. Burrow deep into the cliff to exit at another treed ledge [optional belay to watch and laugh at your partner squeezing though]. Otherwise continue up to a very comfy bolted belay with great views of the valley. 5.6 / 80'.
P5; Climb the nice water worn cracks above to a dirty ledge. Protect the second then easy but dirty traverse left [keep protecting second] to a bolted rap anchor. 5.10- / 80'
Location
Start same as Touch of Class. Where the approach trail meets the cliff find a right facing corner [often wet].
Protection
#0 C3 to #5 C4. Doubles #0.4 to #3 maybe double #5. Mostly gear anchors. Rap the standard rap route from top of Spirit of Adventure