South Face Direct

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

This route simply reverses the rappel route off the North Rabbit Ear. The first 15' are interesting. Above the "spacious scooped out place" one can either follow the-rappel route up over steep open book slabs, or (easier) go through a broken up chimney to the right of these.