- Edit (TBD)
Description
Years ago, the splendid Skawg Dog and I felt the need for some serious hard aid in our lives. Inspired by the bold and fearless ground up ascents by local guidebook author Sir Orenz the Great, we headed into Blair looking for trouble. Stumbling upon this beautiful tips crack was so energizing that we spent the next 20 days full aid sieging our way to the top. Once we summitted this fine mountain, we killed the 30 rack of Nati Ice and hucked our portaledge off the summit using its fly as a base rig.
Many years hence I returned with the degenerate Undergast Murray himself. He was in a wonderful mood, having celebrated his 30th birthday the day before. Reeking of booze and yelling at North dog, Slim managed to hold the rope as I free formed this rock climb. Whilst doing so, I chose not to clip the random BS bolt that was added in the crux and instead returned later to beat the living crap out of it with a hammer.
This is a fine rock climb that is akin to the rookie in length and style - but with an offwidth on top.
Location
It is 50ish yards climber's left of
Married on Morphine
.
Protection
Really small gear for the bottom and really big gear for the top.
Routes in John's Tower
- 1130 is the new 50 AKA Slim Pickins5.10Trad