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This route is on Jailhouse proper. It is just left of Armed Robbery and is an excellent, water polished crack climb. Climb the crack until it peters out then clip a bolt which protects the crux. Pull this move which is significantly harder than anything below, then gun for the anchor above. There is a bit more space between the bolt and the anchor than most of us would like, but it is by no means unsafe.
BE CAREFUL with your gear placements on this one as cams have previously skated out of the water polished crack resulting in injury. That said, there is plenty of solid pro to be had if you keep a cool head and don't rush your placements.
Protection
Light rack with good selection of TCUs.
Routes in Jailhouse Rock
- 12Crime and Punishment5.11cTrad