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Peak Mountain 3

Mellow

FA Alan Doak, Tony Bubb, 6/31/2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

While only worth climbing if you are there anyway, this route is a good warm-up for the area. It was initially lead in approach shoes.

Walk just up past a set of junky looking cracks and past a small tunnel at the base of a chimney that leads to the east side via a squeeze.

Arrive at the base of an inset and start up the left of the cracks on either side, converting this to a stem as you get higher, and the inset narrower. At the top of the inset, pull up and right onto the top of a rounded pillar and belay there.

To escape, scramble (4th class) South on the ridge and into a notch, then through a hole from the East side base back to the West.

Location

This route is the Southern-most known route on the South Ridge , perhaps 100' above the creek-bed. Climb up the left of 2 cracks in an small inset and up onto the top of a pillar that forms its right side.

Protection

Standard light rack from 1" to 3.