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Peak Mountain 3

The Hot Zone

FA Lawrence Stuemke and Allison Sheets, 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A Monastery classic. Located about halfway up the SE corner of the Boneyard formation, the climb begins on a secluded, dramatic shelf perched above the valley floor. The views are to die for - on the ground and on the route. A bouldery start leads to continuous, inspiring climbing just right of the sharp SE arête.

Access to the climb is via a small shelf on the lower end of the Boneyard, found on the Catacomb trail. Look for a bolt route (

Saint Sixtus Scoop

, 5.10b) which starts in a smooth scoop-like wall above the shelf. Scramble up past the bolt route along the narrowing shelf and find the Hot Zone arête above.

To begin, climb back up to the entrance shelf, clip the 1st bolt and jump back to the ground for the full-on, feelin' safe crank - the direct start is a nice boulder problem right up the face, but the hardest moves of the climb can be avoided from the left. Above the first bolt is the unavoidable crux move of the climb and takes one to easier - yet no less interesting - climbing along the right side of the arête.

Hang out from a two bolt anchor and enjoy the view then rap 60' to the ground.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor