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Peak Mountain 3

Fist or Flips

FA Paul Van Betten, Mike Ward 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This clean-cut beauty is a great, pure splitter. Along with others like it, it is very unique to Red Rock. The only thing it lacks, from my knowledge, is a good anchor. It is definitely worth throwing a couple extra cams in the pack if you're going to be in the area.

From the right side of the ledge, climb a cool, lower angle thin hands crack past a bush (or the chimney to the left). Once at the dead vertical (perhaps slightly overhanging) headwall, some broken up handcracks lead to the base of the main course where a #3 will fit. For some it'll turn out to be pretty solid fists. For others, something a little more awkward! The crack and face are spectacularly clean. Eventually, the rock and crack become more broken up again and the rock quality gets, well, a little worse.

Location

The route is obvious from the base of power failure. It's not really on the Ginger buttress. Continue up the gully, scrambling a bit, until a steep little bulge must be pulled to gain the big ledge at the base of the route.

Protection

Double up on everything from big fingers to hands with 3x #3s and 1-3x#4. The business is splitter #4 and you can walk one above you the whole way so only 1 is really needed. 3x #3s is a good idea.