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Peak Mountain 3

East Face

FA the Ancient Ones
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Description

The standard “hiking” route up the Mountain of the Sun is accessed from the pass between Twin Brothers and Mountain of the Sun. This is an aesthetic day out in the Zion backcountry with great views and enjoyable scrambling.

Park off Highway 9 past the tunnel and hike up the upper Pine Creek drainage for around a ½ mile. Exit the main drainage to the left up a slickrock drainage for a couple hundred feet. Head to the northwest up slabs and ledges and note the impressive south buttress of Deertrap Mountain to the north. Hike up a steep slickrock bowl to a saddle between Deertrap Mountain and Bighorn Peak.

From the pass between Deertrap Mountain and Bighorn Peak, looking west and from south to north, note the huge East Temple, the upper wash drainage of Spry canyon and looming large in front to the west is Twin Brothers.

Descend down into the upper Spry Canyon drainage bowl on annoyingly 3rd classy terrain. Head north up the canyon between Twin Brothers and Deertrap Mountain. At the pass, descend down into Lodge Canyon. In around a ½ mile, the canyon opens up into an open bowl below the Mountain of the Sun.

From the open bowl in Lodge Canyon, ascend a really large, tree studded ramp which rises up to the south. Taking the path of least resistance, scramble up to the col between Twin Brothers and the Mountain of the Sun.

Gullies and ramps from the col climb up the south east corner of the Mountain of the Sun. After a couple hundred feet scrambling north up ledges and gully next to an orange wall, look for a gully chute leading west to a more relaxed trail to the summit.

For some, this will be a fairly casual stroll. Others may find the route exposed and challenging. A 60m rope and a few slings will help the less than inspired both up, and down, the route.

For the descent, reverse the line of ascent while being thankful for turning around and paying attention to features on the way up the route.

Most folks will want a couple three hours or more for the trip from the Lodge Canyon floor to the summit and back. The better part of a full day would be prudent planning for the whole experience.

Mountain of the Sun is most likely climbed as a side trip by groups doing the Lodge Canyon canyoneering descent. Be sure to have proper beta and equipment if descending Lodge Canyon. The route has some complicated and exacting terrain features and requires a set of 200 or 300 foot ropes along with all the other accoutrements for a canyon descent. Study up prior to any attempt of the Lodge Canyon route. And, get an early start.

Location

Ascends the East Face of Mountain of the Sun accessed from the floor of Lodge Canyon and the col between Twin Brother and Mountain of the Sun.

Protection

At least one or two 60m ropes and a few slings.


Routes in Mountain of the Sun


  1. 2
    East Face
    Easy 5th
    Trad