- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is slighly overhanging with a complete variety pack of climbing along its 180'.
A short chossy approach pitch (5.7)leads to a ledge with a bolted station.
Pitch 2
-- At the bolted belay, a hand crack arches right. to face moves to enter a clean crack which is followed to near its end A long reach to a crack (11-) where it reaches a bolted belay at a stance.
Pitch 3
--off the belay a few OW and fist moves climb past a good bolt and continue into the clean bombay and flared chimney/slot with fingers/face moves past a bolt. (11-) Above the crack widens enough to take a #4.5 or larger old style camalot near the exit. Continue up the corner to rappel anchors in a nice overhanging alcove below the top of the block
Descent:: a double rope rappel is needed to reach the ground... bring a tag line! (pitch 2 belay anchors are likely unreachable from the overhanging rappel)
Location
This route is NOT on Space tower but is around the corner to the left. This overhanging block with a gash(the Maw) is visible from the cattleguard/fenceline just past the ice cream parlor. Anchors are visible.
Protection
good sized desert rack from 0.4- #5 camalots
(triples in #1-#3.5 , two #4 )