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Peak Mountain 3

Sgt. Saturn

FA Todd Swain and Donette Smith, April 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tough start on creaky holds leads to easier ground.

Boulder out the opening moves then follow crack features above the right facing corner until its reasonable to cross the slab to the right (towards the sweeping finger crack in the left facing wall).

Right side corner looks pretty sparse for pro so maybe better to place gear in the crack high on the left, then cross over and hit up that sweeping finger crack for pro.

Gain troughy ledge. Up and on the right hand side of the trough, just to the left is a nice hand crack leading to main ledge for a just-shy-of-100-foot pitch, or, continue up another 8 feet to summit of the wall (easy 4th class scramble).

A spot on the start may be prudent in case a foot or flake blows. Take care. Kinda sandy.

Location

Located about 10 feet left of Brown and Serve at a right facing corner with a potentially handy boulder (a few feet closer would make the first moves a bunch easier) to lace the boots on just below the start. Walk off route.

Protection

Standard rack. A smallish stopper and/or cam or two might protect the opening moves (an especially tall person might lean across from the boulder at the base and place something reasonable). No fixed gear. No anchor on top. Plenty of crack-age up top for a variety of cams/nuts for a top anchor. Medium nuts/cams seem to fit fairly well.