- Edit (TBD)
Description
Spicy! This is a very exciting hybrid route- Place gear when you get the opportunity! P1- 5.10 A stiff Boulder start leads to a right to left slanting very small finger crack- The Crux?- you can make that call - Boulder start or the move at the top! Not a sport pitch! Look for gear after the first Bolt!
P2 -5.11+ / 5.10 climbing until the exit moves. A good hand and finger crack leads to a puzzling head wall with good holds if your not to pumped to hold on!! Just when the crack seems to end and get wide -there is a great no hands rest - look to the climbers right for a bolt- rest up clip then cast off for some exciting climbing!! There is finger size gear before the last bolts - take it when you can! Exit "stage right"- hard move! You are now in the thick of it Don't clip last bolt too early - a good hold will present itself with patience!
Location
Located on the Main Domentions Wall 40' right of Left Teepee Look for 3 bolts on a steep black face. 2 rappels from 2 bolt anchors with 60m rope
Protection
P1 3 bolts, micro stoppers,stoppers- green alien to .75 cammalot P2 4 bolts stoppers .3-#3 cammalot -doubles to # 2, if you like to sew it up. 2 bolt Anchors on top of both pitches Again take the gear when it is there