Lower Skyline Direct (LSD)

A good alternate to getting up to the Skyline Traverse belay ledge when Ye Gods and Little Fishes and/or Candy Corner are busy. The original line is a wide crack/chimney and a good lead for up and coming trad leaders.

P1:

(V1)

Climb up through broken, sloping rock to a large pine tree. Pass the pine on the left and continue straight up to a good-sized flat area with loose rock just below the obvious left-facing corner. The first pitch fin of La Bella Vista will be to your left. There's a block here you can sling with a cordelette for an anchor (you can also get to this spot from the start of Skyline Traverse by moving left around the big flake feature on the ledge at the start of the main Skyline crack).

P2 (original route):

(V2) (V3)

Step out left, under La Bella Vista's fin and move left into a chimney with a steep ramp further to the left. Climb the chimney and ramp to the top and up to the Skyline Traverse two-bolt anchor. Take a few large pieces.

V1:

(5.3)

Alternative start: Start on the east side, below the start of Skyline Traverse.  When coming up the last bit of the approach trail near the rocks, instead of following the right turn, continue straight in front of you to the wall, scramble left a little to a nice little ledge and locate a short left-facing corner.  From here it's a short distance up to the same flat spot with a block to sling that's mentioned above.  This alternate start makes it a straight shot up to the 5.7 variation (V2) or to climb the short, blocky section and then bail out right (V3).

V2: (5.7)

Go straight up from the belay past a short, blocky section and follow the inside corner, passing two cruxy bulges (2nd is harder). There are good passive pro options throughout. Continue up until you can step right onto a ledge. ~5.7. Once at that stance, there's a good high piece you can place to help with rope drag. Either build a belay further right on the ledge at your feet or boulder up (sparse pro/5.7ish moves) to the Skyline Traverse bolts.

V3: (5.3)

Move up a short, blocky section to a good stance.  Step right and around the corner of the huge flake in front of you to a good ledge.  Continue traversing right and end at the start of the crack on Skyline Traverse's first pitch.

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About 15-20 feet right (down) from the start of Candy Corner at the base of a large tree. There is a well-stomped out, flat area here.

You can rap from the Skyline Traverse anchors but why not continue up another route? From the top of this you can link to Skyline Traverse, Dufty's Popoff, Kauffman-Cardon, etc on the Southeast Corner.

Standard Seneca rack. Bring some small nuts for the first piece or two on P2...there isn't much there. Hexes work well on this climb.  If doing the original route, a large piece or two is helpful (#4 or #5 cam).