- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Follow the bolts to a two bolt belay at a nice ledge. 100'
P2: Follow the bolts again, passing a two bolt rappel anchor on the way to a final two bolt belay/rappel anchor. The pitch is 180' and includes fun chicken heads, a very fun short and steep headwall, and the possibility sling chicken heads for pro.
Location
This route climbs up the direct south face which sits at the upper end of the saddle on the south end of Sheepshead. It's a bit out of the way, but follows the main water drainage that comes down from that saddle. Hike up the drainage until you get to a massive set of boulders / chockstones that block your path. Scramble beneath them to find two fixed hand ropes (one after another) that help you surmount them. Then continue up drainage, taking obvious left fork when the drainage splits. You will in short order hit a natural "box canyon" or cul-de-sac with a rock platform or stage area where the first pitch starts on the left hand side below and left of a right leaning crack/seam.
Tanya Bak's guide to Cochise has more beta and photos of the root.
Protection
Draws and a few slings.
Routes in The Sheepshead
- 22Direct South Face5.10Sport