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Peak Mountain 3

vrAin't No Big Thing

FA various - linked up 5/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is a variation linking other routes with about 10% undocumented climbing. It is posted here as a fairly moderate, continuous, and direct line that is not documented as such, but in terms of new climbing, it vrAint No Big Thing.

Start on the 5.9- variation start of

Red Fox

, moving up under the juniper tree into the left-facing corner to its top, about 20' up. Instead of moving left across a ledge to the

Red Fox

cracks, head up and right over some fairly stable, stacked blocks up and into the main right-facing corner in the center of the crag. Continue up this corner past a good-sized pine (22" circumference - take one long sling to girth hitch this) and up to the top of this corner (5.8+).

Place a few good pieces, and head up a thin crack in a slab a ways below a big bulge. Head up this crack, place a few cams (2-2.5") on long slings to avoid rope drag, and reach the horizontal crack.

Traverse right under the bulge on slabby feet but great hand holds. Continue a few meters to the right to intercept the top crack of

Vrain Dead

from the left side. Protect with a few stoppers or small cams, putt over the bulge (5.7), and continue to the top of the crag and the 2 bolt anchor there.

Rap to the ground (barely) with a 70m rope if it stretches far enough, or rap to a ledge to the right, and scramble off.

Location

Begin as for

Red Fox

, and climb up and right on the huge right-facing corner to intercept

Vrain Dead

at the top.

Protection

While this climb could probably be done on a 2x or 3x set of stoppers and nothing more, it is also doable with a single set of nuts and a single set of cams from small to 3". Take a few longer slings for the top end where the climb zig-zags, to eliminate rope drag, and a 70m rope unless you want to rap it in 2x raps.


Routes in Vrain Dead