Total Eclipse of the Shart

This is a very unique route. Can I give it four stars?? Start in a dihedral hidden behind the pillar and climb up an ever changing crack system. Those looking for IC style splitters should continue on, the crack is ever changing and it is impossible to get a "flow" going. Awesome! After a small roof a downward flaring chimney comes into reach on your right, the route traverses through this flaring chimney passing three bolts and finishes with ten feet of moderate offwidth out on the other side. Those who go ripping out the bottom of the crack are affectionately referred to as "The Shart"

Logistics:

You'll need a 70m rope to lower off, otherwise you can rap with a 60m if you belay from the top. You can prevent any rope drag and have your rope running straight on the traverse by extending your clips on the traverse bolts appropriately; 48", 24", 12", then 3". Clip the bolt before the anchors super short (3") to keep your rope running smoothly past the solid chockstone.

I've climbed this route about six times now and have loved it every time, it really makes you think. Enjoy!

.5 x2

.75 x3

#1 x2

#2 x1

#3 x2

#4 x1

#5 x2

many slings

one 3" draw