Cannonade

The names of the first ascentionists of the first pitches to the “photographer’s ledge” are lost to history. Early photographs of climbers on the Whitney-Gilman, especially on the “ pipe pitch”, virtually prove this “ photographer’s ledge” was commonly used as early as the 1930’s.

(Much of the following is from the article by the submitter that appeared in June 1971 Appalachia.)This is the easiest climb on the cliff, but is not to be taken lightly, especially the last “exit” pitches which can get “greasy” if wet.Two ways to the ledge:1. Start on the south side of the buttress ( opposite the original start to the W-G, on the Black Dike’s talus). Climb a small inside corner for 15-20 ft and then traverse right to broken rock. Straight up this easily. ( optional belay at old pin ?) Continue up 50 ft to the ledge.  180 +/- ft  5.3 -5.4  This is the more common approach.1A. Walk to the front ( East) side of the buttress. Take a ramp-like, sloping ledge which runs diagonally up the front wall of the buttress. Take this for 130 ft ( optional belay just beyond bushes).  Continue up 20-25 ft and then descend left (easy) and up easy rock to the ledge.  180 +/- ft. 5.3 2. Move right on the ledge to a piton hidden behind a vertical slab. Somewhat difficult to find. 5.0 Technically, Cannonade starts at this piton.3. Traverse 120 +/- ft ( lower is easier) to a “ nose” . 5.2 R 4. Around the corner ( “ nose”) and up easily for 35 +/- ft, then cut back left on ledges, then up easily to a slab ( piton) below twin inside corners. 120 ft  5.3 5. Up the right-hand corner. 40 ft 5.4-5.5 ( You might want to haul packs up the actual corner.) 6. Directly up to a large bush 75 ft 5.2 ( but watch out for the moss and lichen) 7. Move a bit left and up a short slab. Then back right and up left ( broken rock) and go around a corner fighting off the bushes. Belay at a birch tree. ( still there???) 75 ft 5.2-5.3 8. Easily across a slabby section to rocks and trees on the left. 80 ft 5.1Obviously, with modern ropes pitches can be combined. It is, however, recommended that one belay at the stance above the twin corners. The slab below is flat and a fall in the corner with inherent slack and/or rope stretch from much above the corner would result in hitting the slab.Above “P8”, Scramble directly up past a large tree ( still there?).  Eventually you will want to go left and pick up the trail down from the Whitney-Gilman.  This has, perhaps, been made a bit easier by the popularity of the Black Dike as a winter climb.

START - on the buttress to the right of the W-G / Black Dike

Std rack