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Peak Mountain 3

Show Me Where It Says I Can't Do This

FA Tom Pietrykowski and Chad McDonald, Aug. 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start in a well featured, lichen crusted moderate hand crack in a left-facing corner 20' right of

Alliteration Arete

. Navigate some maple bushes as the crack turns into a short gully, and find the headwall. The crux is the headwall featuring finger locks and face climbing protected by intermittent cracks. Angle left (protected by small wires and a RP) under the roof to where the line joins the last bolt of

Alliteration Arete

(a #0.4 Camalot can be placed 6" right of that bolt for a pure trad line).

Note: it seems unlikely that this hasn't been climbed yet - given the previous crag development, but we trundled a death-block and left several loose rocks (just right of the route) in the gully to preserve the nature of this climb. It's a bit wooly, and depending on the future traffic, it may require some lichen gardening (minimal) to establish pro.

Location

This ascends the left-facing dihedral 20' right/uphill of

Alliteration Arete

, shares a 2 bolt anchor with

Alliteration Arete

, and has a very comfortable belay seat/double-tree.  Also pulling the rope from this location prevents dropping your rope into the very healthy poison ivy patch just under

Alliteration Arete

.

Protection

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot, double #0.5 Camalots will sew up the initial hand-crack, lots of small wires, and a RP will protect the crux.


Routes in Mystery Rock