- Edit (TBD)
Description
"I stand up next to a mountain
And I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
Jimi Hendrix
15 years after being established, this worthwhile route still has some friable rock and a thought provoking flake.
Surmount the initial overhang, head upwards to the 3rd bolt, then rightwards under, on and over a flake that could add to the adventure. Some fun moves lead to the final headwall, which is steep, hard and sharp. This may be a little height-dependent if you are shorter than 5'6". It is a challenging onsight no matter your height.
Location
Voodoo Child is around the corner from
Monkey Porch
and
Sufferin' Succotash
. If approaching from above, it is easier to stay on the left bank (looking down) of the gully until you can cross back on a rocky ramp, then scramble up ledges to the base of the climb. There's a bolt for the belayer, clipping in would be a very good idea if the leader has any chance of falling before clipping bolt 1 on route. The ledges are not child/dog friendly but are a much pleasanter staging area than the base near
Monkey Porch
.
Protection
8 bolts, ring and chain at anchor.
Routes in The Wall of Voodoo
- 1Voodoo Child5.12a/bSport