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Peak Mountain 3

Bolt Em All

FA Jason Roy
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route has been set up as a multipitch. It could also easily be done as a single pitch with a couple of longish runners (which would make it the longest pitch at HCR). I will describe the two pitch variation here.

P1. 50 feet -- 5 bolts (5.8) This pitch has a crux low and one higher up that are quite different. One comes on a mostly easy slabby section (where for at least shorter climbers) the holds seem to vanish for a move. Work right and smear or high step your way through. Casual terrain then leads to a short overhanging diheadral which turns out to be easier than it initially looks. Arrive soon after at the great midway anchor ledge. P2. 45 feet-- 4 bolts (5.9-). The second pitch is generally pretty easy climbing, but a short much steeper section of orange rock off to the left, which is not currently bolted as well as the rest of the route (possibly to prevent rope drag on a single pitch variant), clocks in harder and more bouldery. Another section of only slightly less steep 5.8 grayish rock above follows but is better protected. Then easy to the top after the previous multicolored/combined sort of headwall feature is climbed. Guidebook rates this 2nd pitch 5.8 as well, but the consensus from the Ranch staff seemed to be 5.9. I interpolated on the high side due to that one section definitely verging on PG13.

Location

Right of Fashion Sense and left of Fireworks in February (the other multipitch route at the Cliffs of Insanity).

Protection

Bolts/Midway and top anchors