- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is yet another quality route on the East end of Lower Mothers Buttress. Follow the trail up from the road to the
Mint Jam
chimney (see
Mint Jam
). This route shares the same start as
No Name Route
but cuts [right] into the offwidth where
No Name
tackles the finger crack. Start in a good hand crack just right of
Mint Jam
chimney, and climb up for 10 feet to a sloping ledge and head right into a super funky offwidth. The book suggests a sideways body stem to get through this section, I suggest bringing a healthy selection of cuss words and a big cam for the move, it would probably be called 5.10 in Boulder Canyon and have a few bolts on it :-) Finish straight up on wide hands passing a few chockstones, and belay on a large ledge at 90 feet.
Walk off to the east.
Protection
A standard rack with one offwidth piece (#4 Camalot).
Per
Sarah Meiser
: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.