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Peak Mountain 3

High Tide

FA Jonathan Siegrist, July, 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A grand tour. Scramble up to a nice ledge below a bullet panel of rock just right of '

Parrot Bay

'. Stick clip the first bolt and begin with immediate difficulties that last until the fourth bolt, where the route eases off for a while. Wander up to the big ledge, clip a long sling or a double length draw on the 9th bolt (important), and fire into the crux upon the brilliant, golden upper headwall on pinches and crimps until you reach chains- enjoy the view. If not for the easy mid-section, this would be super classic.

It is possible to escape left after the 6th bolt and clip the anchor for '

Parrot Bay

' for those not prepared to swim in deep water. 'Low Tide', 5.11.

Location

Straight up the gut. Right of '

Parrot Bay

.'

Protection

13 draws (including one long sling or double draw for 9th bolt) to a fixed anchor. For Turbo glide, absolute zero rope drag, bring two long slings for the 8th and 9th bolts. There is a belay bolt installed on the ledge system (although it's totally mellow up there).

I suggest that the belayer remains below the ledge system so they can see the climber on the upper headwall crux- this REQUIRES A 70M ROPE!!! If you only have a 60m, the belayer must belay from the ledges, just below the beginning of the climb...regardless- TIE A KNOT in the rope as this pitch will literally exhaust an entire 60m! Awesome!!