- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route provides some cool moves on bomber gear and is perhaps the most challenging trad route at the crag. The route climbs the hand crack (#3 Camalots) in a corner to some tricky moves in the roof to a fist crack (#4 Camalots) to the top. This route favors people with larger hands because the crack is on the larger side and might cause the climber to reach deep and trust baggy jams (let me know how the size treats you). If you wish to TR this route you can walk around the back of the cliff, following the cliff band around the corner and up through a corridor and a tricky scramble (I suggest using a rope but can be done without), this will put you on top, and a crawl under a shelf will lead you to the top of the climb where there is a old anchor constructed for rapellers consisting of 2 bolts and a old strap around a boulder (Bring some cord to assemble an anchor). With some effort and plenty of directionals the route can be top roped.
There is a shaky glue-in about 2 ft above the 2 bolt anchor, and is NOT to be used. This will be removed and filled.
There is a striking but faded petroglyph on the wall about 30 feet to climbers left from the base of the route, so be aware of it and help respect and protect this and other antiquities in the area!
Hey also this isn’t my route and has been climbing many times before me, please enjoy!
Location
The crack has an obvious overhang and is located just around the corner and right of “Far Right”
Protection
Standard rack to a 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks