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Peak Mountain 3

Brothel Doc

FA Matt Tackett, Amy Tackett,Jason Haas in 2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a nice, steep route with a distinct crux at the second bolt, and pumpy, yet progressively easier climbing to the top.

Some powerful pulls on good pockets gets you over the starting bulge. Make a tricky second clip, then muscle into a unique lie-back feature and tackle a thin crux on pockets to some better holds. Endure a few more bolts of pumpy climbing until the difficulty relents a bit. Fun, thoughtful slopers, and pockets lead to the chains.

Would get more starts if the rock in the top 1/3 of the route were a bit cleaner and less fragile.

Location

In an alcove 100 feet left of No Sleep Til' Campton. Just right of a right leaning roof crack called Kindred Spirits.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.