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MapDescription
This is a nice, steep route with a distinct crux at the second bolt, and pumpy, yet progressively easier climbing to the top.
Some powerful pulls on good pockets gets you over the starting bulge. Make a tricky second clip, then muscle into a unique lie-back feature and tackle a thin crux on pockets to some better holds. Endure a few more bolts of pumpy climbing until the difficulty relents a bit. Fun, thoughtful slopers, and pockets lead to the chains.
Would get more starts if the rock in the top 1/3 of the route were a bit cleaner and less fragile.
Location
In an alcove 100 feet left of No Sleep Til' Campton. Just right of a right leaning roof crack called Kindred Spirits.
Protection
Bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Routes in What About Bob Wall
- 2Brothel Doc5.11aSport