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MapDescription
Lichenous, small crack, laybacking on the crux first half of the climb makes for skillful (or lucky) footwork with plenty of ledges to place gear. The second half consists of a crack holding bomber hand jams up to the sketchy anchor.
Location
About a 10-minute approach from the road on the east side of the gulley.
Protection
Gear up to 5" with some smaller but bomber nut placements at the crux.
Sketchy anchor consisting of 2 loose bolts, the right-hand bolt having a hook and the other bolt having a tied off, petrified, sling in a "death triangle" configuration with a single chain link in the middle. Desperately needs replacing.
Routes in Lower Toetally Broken Buttress
- 1Toetally Broken5.9Trad