Meadow Muffin

I'll probably roast for giving a clip-up like this three stars, but I'll never forget getting on it in 1985 or 1986 for the first time and loving it. For whatever reason, we had decided that this was the day to try and find out what the big boys were doing. But how to do that without getting totally waxed by the route? Grapevine beta and a hand-drawn xerox were the ticket to the world's safest bolt ladder, and we had no end of praise for the guys who had stitched it up.

Laboratory safe 5.12 climbing on crisp edges awaits the timid and faint of heart. A burn through

Meadow Muffin

a few years ago suggested that most of the climbing was actually middle 5.11, perhaps cruxy down low, but highly continuous.

If you are busting into 5.12, I can't imagine a better clip-up to do it on. What a gas!

Meadow Muffin

is on the west face of the

Bolt Slab

.

10 modern bolts plus 4 old quarter-inchers. It isn't necessary to clip the old bolts if leading this free.

Chain anchors.