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Peak Mountain 3

Punani

FA Jeff Russell
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is in the Streambed Boulders (reached from the "old ass building" parking lot at the west entrance to the park). It follows the dramatic overhanging arete on the biggest boulder.Start with the left hand on a sidepull on the overhanging side of the arete, right hand on a sloper. Get a heel, go right to the perfect edge, and then make a big move with body tension or a sweet keep-your-momentum-going-left-then-right move to reach the perfect slopes up top.In my opinion, it is the best problem in Castlewood - clean, beautiful, and with PERFECT movement. A low start is kinda cool, and bumps the grade up to around V9.Watch out for snakes! I ended up falling on the right side, directly next to a bull snake. Thank god it wasn't a rattler, stay aware!

Location

To get there, hike south from the building, cross the stream to the east side, and follow the east shoreline right to the boulders.

Per

Dan Russell

: follow that trail down until it forks. Take the left fork. After a minute or so you cross a bridge and the trail turns back to the right, paralleling the stream. When it turns back left/uphill/away from the stream, plunge straight ahead across the field. Following the streambed you'll quickly come to many boulders in the streambed itself.