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MapDescription
Disclaimer: this route is potentially very dangerous if the cliff were to topple due to the soft nature of the rock.
A powerful (possibly height dependent) start leads to a big ledge you can take a nap in. From here work up smaller holds (crux) before the second bolt, then gun it up to the top and finish with a classic Zen Pen top-out.
Location
In the Purgatory area it is the obvious overhang on the tallest part of the wall. About 100 yards before you get to "New Map to Hell".
Protection
2 quickdraws with 2 bolt anchor
Routes in Purgatory
- 20Fire Crotch5.10+Sport