- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1. I would have to disagree with the topo as far as where the crux is. I felt the true crux was at about 20 feet with its flared thin hands, rattly fingies and polished layback. Its a little hard/pumpy to pro. Skip the obvious bolted anchor (its a good shake-out) and continue through a second crux of 10+ and cool stemming and finger locks. (These ratings apply to 6' male...Switch the crux sections around if you are shorter and have small hands). At the top of the corner/roof, make a short, cool traverse left to an easy squeeze with lots of knobs and belay above off good nuts. (11a PG-13 and incredible fun)
P2. Up to the roof and traverse left on a hand rail to an ugly, knobby chimney. (5.7 R)
Location
On the northwest face of the dome. It will be obvious!
Protection
set of cams from blue Alien - #4 Friend sizes with extra yellow Alien - red Camalot sizes, med/large wired nuts
Routes in North Whizz Dome
- 1Handbook5.11aTrad