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Peak Mountain 3

Handbook

FA Jim Bridwell and Roger Breedlove
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. I would have to disagree with the topo as far as where the crux is. I felt the true crux was at about 20 feet with its flared thin hands, rattly fingies and polished layback. Its a little hard/pumpy to pro. Skip the obvious bolted anchor (its a good shake-out) and continue through a second crux of 10+ and cool stemming and finger locks. (These ratings apply to 6' male...Switch the crux sections around if you are shorter and have small hands). At the top of the corner/roof, make a short, cool traverse left to an easy squeeze with lots of knobs and belay above off good nuts. (11a PG-13 and incredible fun)

P2. Up to the roof and traverse left on a hand rail to an ugly, knobby chimney. (5.7 R)

Location

On the northwest face of the dome. It will be obvious!

Protection

set of cams from blue Alien - #4 Friend sizes with extra yellow Alien - red Camalot sizes, med/large wired nuts


Routes in North Whizz Dome


  1. 1
    Handbook
    5.11a
    Trad