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Peak Mountain 3

Draggin' Book

FA John Steiger, EV
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Forgotten over the years (perhaps due to it's more classic neighbors), Draggin' Book features a 4-star 5.10/10+ stemming crux! Unfortunately, the rest of the route is substantially more moderate and wandery and it's hard to give the route more than 1-star in it's current condition. However, I would say this route is worth doing if you don't mind a little fuzz and like this kind of stuff.Climb: Start with about 20' of 5.8R (mental crux), heading up seam/weakness beneath the lowest major roof system right of Cream of Belay. The rock here isn't great but I didn't find this section to be too bad. The rest of the route is pretty well protected. Move to the right side of the roof, then start hand traversing left on steep rock to a foot ledge. Traverse the foot ledge further left to the classic R-facing corner and a pin. Reassess how much of a mess you made in regards to rope drag. Once you've fixed your rope, head up the super fun corner to it's top. From here, follow weaknesses and moderate climbing up to a slabby ledge system ~150? feet up. If you find yourself below a bolt, you're on the second pitch of finding Guinness.Descent:From the ledge system, there is a small tree that looks like you can rap from (unknown if 2 ropes required). There is apparently a 3rd class descent somewhere around here, but you may have to climb up to find it. We took what we thought was the easiest looking way down off the ledge and it was much closer to low 5th than 3rd (I was happy to have stayed roped up for it)

Location

Upper W/SW face of Neptune. Starts up the Seam/weakness up the blank slab between the start of Cream of Belay and Finding Guinness.

Protection

-Double rack from 00 - #3, full set of wires including RPs. Narrow head cams preferred -Many slings, recommend 10 shoulder and 4 doubles if you place lot's of gear. Double ropes would be nice, but not critical -crux relies on a piton which looks to be in good shape and can be backed up ~2' below

Totems / tri-cams / ball-nuts may be helpful but also not critical