Celestial Crack

The Celestial Crack will test your mind with creative gear placements on less than perfect rock. Although slightly runout in some parts, the difficult sections can be sewn up if you take your time. Overall, this is an out of this world climb with heavenly views on the summit.P1: Start up the easy slab (5.4R without the bolt) to a ledge then up the short chimney on the right that’s filled with dirty blocks. On top of the boulder you’ll find a good cam in a pocket to ease your mind while you delicately climb and pro the blocks above.

In the stance below the roof there are plenty of options for gear, although the crack is shallow and the rock quality is poor. A tiny nut or cam (00 C3 worked for me) up high helps. Make the crux move to reach the jug or hand jams and the start of whipable gear. Pull the roof and climb the widening crack above to a gear belay on a ledge. Lots of gear options for the anchor. 5.10 PG13, 90’

P2: Step around the corner and scramble to the summit. 4th class 15’

Descent:

Rap anchor on the summit drops you right on your packs. Rap once with a 70 meter rope or twice with a 60. Tie knots for either.

East face.

60M rope, 70 preferred, double rack BD .3-3, single nuts, 00 C3 or tiny nuts & a 4, optional 5 & 6 (protects easy chimneys on bottom and top). Bring at least a couple of runners too.