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Peak Mountain 3

Sugar Mountain

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Description

This route is a fun, easy climb up Greyrock's South Slabs that ascends the right margin of the upper slab, aiming for a corner and small roof at its upper right side.

P1 - face climb up the water streaks left of the end of the slab. There is no obvious pro for probably 30+ feet, but the climbing doesn't exceed 5.3 or 5.4. Continue up through intermittent flakes and seams, following the path of least resistance. Belay on a small ledge at a horizontal break in the face.

P2 - climb the corner and adjacent crack to right beneath the roof. Traverse right under the roof and pull up on a nice ledge. Belay here, or continue up cracks to wherever you please.

Stewart Green's

"Rock Climbing Colorado"

advises a downclimb descent to the southwest. However, one can easily link up climbable features anywhere from 3rd/4th class to 5.8 and reach the summit.

Location

This route is on the second tier of Greyrock's south slabs. Approach as for

Fun Flake

and climb that or any of the lower slab routes to the second tier, or scramble up the gully climber's left of that route. Begin on the far right side of the upper slabs and climb up the face, aiming for a left-facing corner and small roof above.

Protection

A standard rack up to #4 Friend/Camalot will do just fine. If 5.5 is far under your limit, you can absolutely get away with a light rack including a fist-sized piece.