Doug the Subway Fugitive

Some of the most exposed bolt clipping at Upper West. Dries very quickly as there are no trees to block the sun or wind.

Make easy moves up to a stance below the small roof. Link a few fun, powerful moves through the roof to a decent rail. From the rail the next two moves can be either 5.9 or 5.10d depending on which direction you decide and you'll know when you reach the hero jug which way you went. A tough mantle leads to a good stance that some people can manage to get no hands although I've never been able to find it. Go figure. Shake out here, it's your last chance before the anchors. Continue up the exposed face with increasing difficulty tackling two tough cruxes with tricky beta. A proud onsight for any aspiring 5.11 climber.

After giving it a second redpoint I think 10d is a bit of a sandbag. If you climb it please submit your opinion.

Destined to be a great route with some traffic.

This route starts at two ring-anchors in the middle of the huge ledge.

To access...

1. Climb Beginner's Luck.

2. Climb Rented Mule and climb over the anchors.

3. Climb Fresh Meat and traverse left.

4. Climb Paradox and traverse left.

5. Traverse right from the base of Chockstone. This is loose, scary, and not at all recommended although I felt I had to add it for posterity as this is how we accessed the ledge for the first time. Luckily, my partner Max took the liberty of removing the two-ton flake that was previously in the way...you're welcome.

Bolted conservatively, (body length between some bolts) although the falls would be totally clean as the route gently overhangs and all the crux moves have short falls. You'll only go flying if you botch a clip and there's no cheating your way through this one. Enjoy!