- Edit (TBD)
Description
An old route and info was very vague but this seems to be the only 5.6 path through the area.
This is a way more funnerer way out of the gorge than the prow, and it is a little shorter if you solo to the first tree ledge you could top it out in one pitch with a 60m rope...
P1. Many will solo this, you have two options, stay out on the face (right) at 5.6 or hop into the chimney/corner at 5.3 this is the easier and more secure way. Gain the small tree ledge
P2. 5.5 Pull up onto the next ledge and get some #1or #2 gear, aim left into the chimney (not visible in topo photo) at the top of the chimney you will arrive at another tree ledge, a good belay spot and fairly short pitch
P3. 5.6 Enter the right faceing corner with excellent gear options, save a #2 for the end of this corner where it hits a small roof, this is the crux of the climb, pull the roof on the right side and continue up this face on glory jugs aiming up and left to the dirt and rock corner you finish at nearly the same spot as the prow.
This route offers shade in the late afternoon while the prow is baking in the sun.
Location
the climbers right side of the prow buttress
Protection
trad
Routes in Amphitheater
- 6Short Cake5.6Trad