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Peak Mountain 3

People's Choice

FA Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, Fall 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

People's Choice is a popular climb and deservedly so. This route starts just after the trail meets up with the rock. Rolofson's guidebook suggests that it is the far right climb; however, a new bolted line is the far right one (

Nickels and Dimes

). Just to the left is

Road Kill

.

Pitch 1: Start up and follow a great, super-positive flake and then over a hump. I hope you wore your edging shoes, because the crux is blank as hell for hands. Belay at the end of the right-sloping big ramp, 6 bolts. You can access P2 by climbing a couple of the neighboring routes as well.

Pitch 2: Scramble up the easy 5.5 section. You can and probably should link up the first two pitches (we did). Belay at the base of the dihedral, 6 bolts.

Pitch 3. Waste that sucker! This is the most fun I had in a while. Overhanging, steep dihedral with lots of stemming moves and good places to clip. The crux comes out after exiting the dihedral - swing right, up, clip, and finish to the bolts, 8 bolts.

Pitch 4 (optional): Go left, and clip 2 more bolts, 5.5 s. Do a 210 foot rap.

Descent: rappel. If you try to rap from P4 chains to P2 chains, you may end up dangling in space or need to do some easy scrambling back up the P2 anchors. You can make it from P3 anchors to the P1 ledge with a single rap and walk off to the south. You can also get from the P2 anchors to the ground in a single rap.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 50'. 6 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 100'. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 170'. 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. With a 60m rope, you can JUST reach the P1 belay ledge, which is on top of a nice ramp where you can easily downclimb to the right.