King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge)

Note. The first part of the traverse from Pleasant Street to Standard Route was climbed earlier by Paul Ross and Dave Cilley in 1972.This Traverse takes a different line to the right to left girdle of The Big Plum.The FA of the left to right King Crab took about 18 hours.If rappels are counted the climb will be close to 3000'.

Climb Pleasant Street to the tree covered ledge 150'5.7. Scramble right along the ledge to the ramp of Upper Refuse Climb the first pitch of Upper Refuse. (80' 5.3) Continue traversing from the belay ledge to reach belay of Woman in Love. Climb up and right into the Beast Flake.Go up the Beast Flake to its top then make an awkward traverse into Recompense. Follow Recompenseto the belay below the final corner. 100' 5.9 Climb the crux of Recompense to the rest then move right into the corner of Gypsy.Step right to the belay above the roof of The Prow. 70' 5.9 Make a wild 150' rappel into the Big Flush. From the other side of the Big Flush traverse horizontally right to the belay above pitch 1 of Thin Air. Follow The Thin Air Traverse all the way to the cave on Standard Route.5.6. Down climb Standard Route to belay top of the first pitch of this route close to the the long dike of Diagonal . Climb the long dike of Diagonal to the belay below the crux buldge. 160'5.4. Rap and tension down to the long clean thin ledge (the Sidewalk)Move along the ledge to belay under the Pendulum Roof. Climb up to the roof,then traverse right to the tree at the base of The Bridge. Travers right to a pin ,then rappel 40'to a ledge with a tree. Then rappel 150' to a tree at the top of pitch 2 of Pendulum. Traverse down the ledge on the right passing Option 9A and continue traversing to reach Bonfire Ledge. Continue up pitch 3 of Intimidation, stepping right to reach Antline Ledge.5.10a. Make a difficult rappel down and right to the top of pitch 1 Abrakadabra. Traverse right across the sloping ledge then up a hand crack which slants right into Repentance. Continue up Repentance for a pitch and a half.Once over the final chockstane go right over slabs and belay at a tree. Rappel down and right into Warlock and belay on an anchor at the right end of the sloping ledge above the crux corner of Warlock. Do a diagonal rappel about 70' to the anchor of The British are Coming. Move right to some ledges at the top of Dont Fire and from the right end of the ledge climb the thin crack above (5.10)to the small ledge at the top of The Wez. Make strenious (10a) hand traverse right to reach Diedre at the top of the birch tree corner. Follow pitch 4 of Diedre to the big terrace and belay at its right end. Hand traverse (10a) to a ledge . Traverse right on slabs and ledges to a corner. Climb the corner to the top . Then off to the pub for a well deserved pint.

Starts at Pleasant Street at the far left of the crag . See guide book "North Conway Rock Climbs" by Jerry Handren

Standard rack . Two 9m ropes were used.