- Edit (TBD)
Description
This line climbs
Climb and Punishment
for its first 50 feet before taking the finger crack that exits on the left. The crack involves a relatively short battle to stay balanced whilst jamming. It seemed best to belay just past the lip before continuing up and left to reach the jumbled rocks above
Finger Grinder
, where easy scrambling down through blocks leads to the
Glenda's Chimney
rappel.
The line has quality moves, especially with the approach via
Climb and Punishment
. Plenty of no hands rest options exist just prior to cutting into the finger crack, including the version I found that resembled sitting in a Barker Lounger. Perhaps it was my creativity in resting before heading into the line, but I still think the line is soft for the Vedauwoo 11c grade. [Perhaps it is] comparable to
Max Factor
but less sustained.
Protection
Gear from 3" to tips. [It is useful] to have extra 1-3 inch gear for a belay anchor over the lip.
Recommended rack with grain of salt: doubles #3-0.5 BD + 2x #1 TCU + (belay) one extra #2-#4 Camalot + 1-2" pieces.
Routes in Reynolds Hill
- 24Climbs of Passion Exit5.11b/cTrad