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Peak Mountain 3

Blower Install

FA Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, MartyLewis, Tom Helvie, 4/2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Nice long pitch directly above the river.  Good variety of climbing, starts with a thin finger crack, takes an overhanging arete, followed by fun face, then slab climbing on high quality rock for the last half of the pitch.

Start with the thin crack that takes one into the base of the double overhanging corner.  Move left onto the exposed and undercut arete (crux).  The upper half climbs just right of a faint hanging dihedral.

Descent: Be careful, one rope will NOT get you down.  Perhaps the best strategy is to lead, lower to the Not To Code anchor (comfortable), belay a follower, lower them to NTC, then a 35m rapp (using an NTC chain to prevent the rope going into the water.) Two ropes would obviously work but the ropes would go into the river when pulling.  In spite of the descent issues this is a good route, worth the trouble.

Location

Right of Not To Code, rightmost route on the wall.  Starts at the lowest point of the wall off the small flat landing after crossing the stream.

Protection

17 bolts. Mussies.