- Edit (TBD)
Islands of Stability (open project)
Description
Unfinished project open to anyone willing to continue up to the ledge hand-drilling from stances. Bring a hand drill and a bolt-- there should be 1 more stance after the crux. I just ask that you don't change the name or rap-bolt.
Fun and exciting face climbing up an arete on the right side of the Snort Wall, left of a dirty chimney.
The first 2 bolts I ever drilled were on this climb, hand-drilled from calf-burning stances. The second has been tested dozens of times up to 190 lbs, so it must be good. There is a bit of gear between the bolts. Up to the high point there are 2 5.10a-ish cruxes. Both come a long ways above your gear (see picture). At the 2nd bolt, there is a hard 10 feet of climbing. This marks the current high point.
I went back with Jake a few years ago to have another go at it and after giving up on doing it in good style we climbed the chimney to put in a TR anchor with the hopes of head-pointing it. We managed to TR it at around 12- or 12, but neither of us were up to the lead. If anyone is into this sort of fun, it's a worthy climb.
The second pitch also looks good, and would be a similar style.
Location
On the far right side of the Snort Wall, on the way to the Coke Wall, you'll come to a big chimney. Stop there and look up the low-angle arete on the left side of the chimney. Don't be fooled by the angle, it's harder than it looks. There should be a couple of lonely bolts up there if you look hard enough.
Protection
nuts, 1 each up to #1 camelot
Routes in The Snort Wall
- 8Islands of Stability (open project)5.12-Trad