The Snave Direct

From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climb some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left site of couloir. After crossing main couloir climb a brillant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above small overhang (2nd crux), climb 50' mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.

The lower cliff band was climbed mostly on snow at list at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger, Dennis ?, and Jeff Fox.

TR:

scottborger.com/gallery.php…

.

This is the steep wall just below main summit.

Solid rock. Few stoppers and cams to max 3". Also useful 2-3 short screws.