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Five Easy Routes
Description
An exploration day after doing Flat Iron led to these five climbs. Didn't think they were worth putting them in individually, so here they are. I had thought of usurping the old movie title "Five Easy Pieces" but chose to more clearly indicate this posting was a list of 5 climbs.These were all to the right of Flat Iron. If you are into "romping up 5.0 to 5.4 slab" in "adventure mode", then stop reading here ! if you like a bit more Beta, read on. Climb # 1 - Start about 25+/- ft to the right of Flat Iron and climb up clean-ish rock between an "inverted pine tree" about 25 ft up (on the right), and bushes on the left. P1 - about 90 ft to a 5-inch oak(?) tree with a rap/belay anchor.P2 Up shrubs, then left-ish and up thru a small overlap (some pro) and then straight up easy rock to a rap/belay anchor on a tree; which is about 40 ft up-and-right of the anchors of Flat Iron. 105 ft 5.3(?) Disclaimer- we only TR'd P2 of this climb, but did "scope out" "P1" on rappel, thus the "?".NOTE- I do not remember how much rope was left of our single 70m rope when we reached the 5-inch oak(?) tree from the anchor. Take care if using a 60m rope. Plenty was left after rapping the lower pitch. Climb #2 - "Gateway" - This was the gateway to a nice, level tree&brush ledge and a clean, upper slab.Approach - Hike up and to the right about 75-100 ft from the start of Flat Iron. (easiest terrain seemed to be about 10-20 ft out from the where the slab enters the woods) Cut back left to a flat-ish spot where there is a 5-inch white birch tree. On the slab, a few feet from the tree is a triangular rock about 2 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft (photo 1).P1 - Step left to gain the clean rock, take this up to an overlap (gear) and climb over the overlap (a very height dependent move; alternately pass the OL on its left end). Continue up to the tree ledge (good belay here) then straight up the white rock [photo 2] (5.3 -5.4 R/X) to a tree clump with a rap/belay anchor. About 215 ft done as one pitch, 5.3-5.4 R/X Climbs 3,4 and 5 Start from the tree ledge Climb # 3 - From the tree ledge, we TR'd the steeper, grey-colored clean slab [photo 3 ] 10-15 ft right of "Gateway". 5.5 A thin crack about 40 ft up was cleaned out and a nut placed as a directional.Climb # 4 - From the tree ledge, we TR'd the steep, clean white rock about 5 ft left of the obvious corner / flake [photo 4] . 5.6 A #2 Camalot (gold) was placed behind a flake about 30 ft up as a directional.Climb # 5 - This climb was led before #4 was climbed. Climb the corner, place pro and then make a "tricky" (for 5.5 or so ! ) step left and up. Above and left-ish, a gold #2 Camalot can be placed behind a horizontal flake, and further up and left the aforementioned wire nut in the thin crack. 5.4-5.5 100 ft Rap from the fixed rap/belay station.NOTE- I do not remember how much rope was left of our single 70m rope when we reached the tree ledge from the anchor. Take care if using a 60m rope.
Location
Climbs are to the right of Flat Iron - see individual climbs
Protection
Very little available, but a std rack should do it See individual climbs for protection beta.