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Peak Mountain 3

Kaleidoscope’s Eye

FA T. Hobbs, R. Ziegler, 7/2019. TD
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 starts about 100 feet left of Gold Digger using a thin crack in a flake.  This moderate crack takes finger size gear until seaming out after ~45 feet. Bolts protect slabby moves and continue to a leftward roof traverse.  5.11a.  8 bolts, gear to #1 camalot.

Pitch 2 steps right off the belay, then up and slightly right to a steep crack.  Follow this to a bolt protected mantle onto the arete. 2 more bolts protect the crux moves. 5.11b. 6 bolts, gear to #3 camalot.

Pitch 3 follows easy, broken ground to a bolt.  Then follow the long corner for about 50m. This leads to a mussy hook anchor in a corner.  Do not belay here! This anchor is the last pitch of Gold Digger anchor and will be used when rappelling. Instead clip a bolt left and use a 2 bolt anchor on a small, scenic ledge. 4 bolts, gear to #3 (doubles of #2 optional). 5.9

Pitch 4 follows bolts up a tricky slab into a low angle, left facing corner.  This steepens into overhanging jugs, eventually giving way to a ledge.  Continue up a moderate chimney to a sloping ledge. The rappel anchor is at the right edge of this ledge. 5.11c. 11 bolts, gear to #3.

Rappel with 5 raps using a single 70m.  The first rappel returns you to the Gold Digger anchor near the P3 belay. The second rap uses an intermediate anchor on a ledge to the right of P3 corner. From here, rappel the route.

Location

Located about 25 minutes from the parking for Scheelite Canyon. Route gets sun from ~1030 until 6pm during the summer. Follow trail as for Blindspot but rather than scrambling to Blindspot, continue up use trail to the base of Gold Digger (massive left facing corner). Kaleidoscope’s Eye starts about 100 feet left of Gold Digger.

Protection

All pitches are mixed. All anchors bolted. Bolts and gear to #3, optional to bring 2, #2's for P3. Cruxes are very well protected by bolts.


Routes in Blindspot Buttress