We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

American West

FA March, 27 2021 - Adam Pequette, Weston Silbaugh, Jim Chastain
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Work up through the lower schist bulges and trough, then up between the wide left crack and the thin right to left slanting seam.  The crux of the first pitch, which is a little deceptive, lies between bolts 6-8.  There is a two bolt hanging belay anchor just after the steep section.  The second pitch is much easier (5.7+).  Start up the unprotectable crack, clip a bolt, and work right onto the face.  Follow 6 more bolts and finish using the crack to the left (rather easy) to gain the final anchors.  The route can be descended with a single 60m rope using two rappels or a single double rope rappel. The route is best done in one pitch using 16 draws and the necessities for the final anchor.  This avoids the hanging belay.  The first pitch anchors are set-up well for a top rope if your party wants to just work the first pitch.  There is an optional walk-off off the back.  A belay from the second pitch achor is recommended to reach the final "gully" if choosing to walk off.

Location

This route is presently the only bolted line to the left of and downhill from American Life.  There is a large pine tree at it's base and is leaning in towards the rock face. It's also the left most bolted line on the primary the formation (as of March 28, 2021).43°53'58"N 103°28'24"W

Protection

First pitch is 8 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor and chains. The second pitch is 7 bolts plus a two bolt anchor and chains. 16 clips if done as one pitch. All stainless steel 3/8" x 3" Hilti bolts.