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Peak Mountain 3

Devil's Island

FA Chuck McGibbon and Tom Treiman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a two pitch route, which helps to minimize the rope drag. Pitch 1 has a 5.6 start and goes 30 feet, with  3 bolts, to a wide ledge where the anchors with mussy hooks are within reach. Pitch 2 is 45 feet long, 6 bolts, with a 5.10a crux just above its first bolt. It then has a 20 foot walk across a gentle slope to a third wall where the second set of anchors with mussy hooks are visible.About the name: Devil's Island was the nickname of a French penal colony in the islands off French Guiana from 1852 to 1953. It was infamous for its harsh treatment of political prisoners and had a death rate of nearly 75%. The book, "Papillon" (1969) describes the author Henri Charrriere's escape from the island by jumping off a cliff into rough seas and then floating away on a bag of coconuts.  The subsequent movie starred Steve McQueen and Dustin Hoffman.  However the story turned out to be fictional when it was shown that the author never set foot on Devil's Island.

Location

The extreme left (ie, South) end of the prison wall. It is also10 feet left of the route Guantanamo.

Protection

1st pitch 3 bolts plus mussy hooks, 2nd pitch 6 bolts plus mussy hooks.