Return of the King

Per

Indika Young

: this is a super fun route with lots of exposure with the luxury of good holds! The first pitch has 11 bolts, so it would be ideal to climb with route with 2 sets of quickdraws (12 total). Every pitch after that requires less quickdraws.

Per

Byron Murray

: this can be done in 5 pitches. It is possible to combine pitches P1 & P2, P3 & P4, or P4 & P5 if you have 20 quickdraws and a 70m rope. Matt Piscopo and his partner agreed that the pitches should probably be rated as follows: P1: 5.6; P2: 5.8-; P3: 5.7; P4: 5.7; P5: 5.5.

To descend, do 4 rappels if you have a 70m rope or 5 rappels with a 60m rope. Or walk off as described by someone offering comments: walk off climber's left down a couple short 4th Class moves to gain the talus between the lower and upper great faces. Hike down unconsolidated talus following the edge of the Lower Great Face back to the base. Crossing through the notch between the LGF and the small tower doesn't go. You have to hike below it.

Begin about 20-30 feet left of

Gizmo

. Left of

Gizmo

is a roof that is no higher than about 15 feet with a 40 foot chickenhead wall above it. Left of this wall where the roof ends, this multi-pitch 5.8 sport climb begins. See the photos.

Bolts.